Last year Cathal King travelled to Pakistan to visit his uncle, Columban Missionary Fr Tomás King. He recounts how his travels deepened his understanding of Pakistan’s complexities.
The purpose of my visit to Pakistan in 2024 was to volunteer alongside my uncle, Fr Tomás King, who has worked there for over three decades. I wanted to immerse myself in a different culture and learn about local life; to witness Pakistan’s rich cultural diversity and the warmth of its people.
This entailed travelling across the country, from major cities to rural mountainous regions, meeting rural communities, including the Parkari Kohli tribe.
After Karachi, I visited Lahore. Then it was northwards to Islamabad by bus, a five-hour journey. From Islamabad I travelled further northwards by car to the scenic Karakoram Highway along the Indus River. My driver brought us through the towns of Chilas, Gilgit, Balakot, and Karimabad, where we stayed for a couple of days, using it as a base to explore the Hopper Valley and the Black Glacier. The scenery was just incredible: snow-capped peaks, panoramic views of the Himalayas and stunning valleys. I got to meet the unique Ismaili community in Karimabad.
In Pakistan’s northern mountains, Cathal tried to reach the Chinese border near Sost, but faced restrictions due to a trade dispute. The journey, on narrow high-altitude roads, was delayed by multiple landslides.
The atmosphere was less conservative and calmer; women seemed freer in their dress code and local people were friendly. However, there was a strong security presence due to the area’s proximity to the CPEC (China-Pakistan Economic Corridor), with many checkpoints and police escorts. The mountains and unique way of life had a profound impact on me.
In Quetta I attended the wedding of a close school friend whom I met at St Jarlath’s College in Ireland. Originally from Afghanistan, his family moved to Quetta before later settling in Ireland. Situated in a valley with arid mountain views, the dry heat was a relief compared to Sindh’s humidity. In Quetta there was a strong Pashtun cultural identity with unique customs and attire, such as traditional shalwar kameez with a waistcoat and round, flat-topped hat called a Pakol.
The atmosphere was conservative with fewer women visible in public, those that were seen wore face coverings. Many Pashtuns view themselves as a unified community across Afghanistan and Pakistan, often disregarding national borders.
At my friend’s traditional Muslim wedding the men and women were seated separately; I never saw my friend’s bride. A small family ceremony was followed by a large banquet. The men dance the Attan, a traditional Pashtun dance. There was no alcohol and the energy remained high late into the night.
At Cathal’s friend’s wedding in Quetta.
While in Quetta, I taught English to some kindergarten students (ages 5-7) in a local primary school in small classes of 8-10 students. The resources were very limited: one shared textbook for the class and no whiteboard. Other challenges included the lack of electricity from 9am to 12 noon which made the classrooms dark and very hot. There was a heavy reliance on rote learning; many students memorised words without understanding their meaning. Students often spoke Urdu and other regional languages, showcasing impressive multilingual skills from a young age.
My uncle, Fr Tomás, runs the Joti Centre in Mirpurkhas, a centre for religious programmes, training, and gatherings for the Catholic community in Sindh. Through his work, I met many Christian families and communities across interior Sindh, Lahore, Karachi and even Quetta. I witnessed my uncle’s work supporting local communities, particularly housing projects for tribal people whose homes are vulnerable to flooding. Seeing him help those in need firsthand was deeply moving.
Attabad Lake – also known as Hunza Lake – located in the Gojal region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.
Everywhere we went, the church community welcomed us, often hosting us in parish houses or at priests’ homes. Attending Mass in Pakistan was a powerful experience. In both cities and remote villages, people engaged with the service wholeheartedly. The congregations sang Urdu hymns with passion, accompanied by drums and shakers – unlike in Ireland, where participation is more reserved.
Their deep connection to faith was evident. Despite being a minority in a predominantly Muslim country, Christians maintain a strong faith. Their dedication, even amidst societal challenges, is inspiring; they uphold their beliefs with pride and resilience.
Temperatures reached up to 45°C in the peak of summer; daytime highs averaged 35-40°C. Nighttime remained warm, with fans essential for comfort indoors. How difficult it must be for people without fans or air conditioning, especially with the mosquitoes. Climate change is impacting life in Pakistan.
With fellow teachers at a local primary school in Quetta where he taught English to children in kindergarten.
I witnessed heavy rain, which caused stagnant water to remain for weeks in many areas, due to insufficient drainage and the soil’s retention of the water. Pakistan’s monsoon rains have been increasingly severe; the catastrophic floods of 2022 caused widespread damage. I saw the glacier shrinkage in the northern mountains, the impact of this has become increasingly visible over the past two decades.
The Parkari Kholis live simply in rural villages of small mud-and-straw huts of one or two rooms. Their homes are surrounded by farm animals such as goats, chickens and cattle, reflecting their agrarian lifestyle. Meals are often cooked on simple ground stoves, using traditional methods, with the staple food being roti and dal.
The Parkari Kholi speak their own language, Parkari, though many also know Urdu. Women’s clothing is colourful and patterned, reflecting a rich cultural identity. The Parkari Kholi are often viewed as low-caste, resulting in discrimination and economic hardship. Some have been victims of ‘bonded labour,’ a modern-day form of slavery which sees them trapped in cycles of debt and poverty.
Limited government support, along with systemic corruption, feudalism and bonded labour, add to their struggles. Despite their hardships, the Parkari Kholis are known for their warmth and generosity, always ensuring guests are well-fed and welcomed.
The resilience and hospitality of the Parkari Kholi people left a lasting impression of strength and kindness amidst adversity.
First published in the March/April 2025 issue of the Far East magazine. Please subscribe and support Columban missionaries in their work. From just €10 for a digital edition or €20 for print. See: https://columbans.ie/far-east-magazine/
